Sew A Maternity Tee
Boo and Lu’s Grove tee is a staple for any wardrobe. Perfectly fitted without being too tight, a quick and easy sew, and a layering essential, Grove is a basic that should be in every sewist’s pattern collection. Grove comes in sizes 0-32, but there is also a FREE Maternity and Nursing Add-On available! You can sew a maternity tee or a nursing-friendly tee using the FREE Add-On and the standard Grove pattern!
To sew the maternity version, follow the simple instructions included with the add-on pattern to create the maternity/nursing front bodice. Once that is done, simply use the back bodice and sleeve pattern pieces from Grove and construct the tee following the Grove tutorial. This blog post will also give you step by step instructions with pictures for how to do it.
As a bonus, we are also including a hack for the nursing option! The FREE Maternity Add-On for Grove comes with an additional neckline option that is lower to be nursing-friendly. Our nursing testers tried it out with success! Because it requires stretching the neckline out for nursing, we are using this blog post to also give instructions for a trick of stabilizing the neckline with clear elastic so that it will retain its shape after nursing sessions.
Materials/Notions Needed
- Adult Grove Tee Pattern
- Free Maternity Grove Add-On Pattern
- 2 pieces of 3/8″ (1cm) wide elastic, cut at 10″ length each
- For the nursing neckline stabilization, clear elastic the length of the neckband, plus around 4″ (10cm) (You may not need this much but it’s easier to start with too much and then trim)
Sewing the Maternity Add-On
- First, cut the Maternity Grove Add-On front bodice, using upper bust size. Then, complete all size adjustments/grading on it as you would the standard front bodice, using the Grove tutorial for guidance. Cut either the regular neckline or the lower nursing friendly neckline. Cut the coordinating neckband from the maternity add-on pattern. Cut the back bodice and sleeves from the regular Grove pattern, with all size adjustments/grading. Have two pieces of 3/8″ elastic, cut at 10″ each.
- Make sure to transfer the elastic placement markings onto the side seams of the front bodice from the maternity bodice pattern piece.
3. Starting with the WRONG side of the front bodice piece facing up, lay one piece of elastic on the side seam. Align one short edge of the elastic with the top elastic placement marking. Tack this end in place with a few stitches on your sewing machine.
4. Pin/clip the other short end of the elastic to the second elastic placement marking. Sew the elastic along the side seam of the front bodice using a zigzag stitch, while stretching the elastic evenly between the two marks.
5. After stitching the elastic down, the right side of the fabric will be evenly gathered between the markings. Repeat with the other piece of elastic on the other side seam of the front bodice.
6. This will now be your front bodice piece, and your side seams will have been gathered to match the length of the back bodice. Follow the Grove tutorial to finish constructing the shirt. When you reach the steps of sewing the front and back bodice at the side seams, make sure the elastic is fully caught withing the seam allowance. If you use a serge, use a wider stitch so that you can catch it in the side seam without cutting it off.
That’s it! You now know how to sew a maternity tee!
Stabilizing the Neckline
If you sew the nursing-friendly neckline, you may choose to stabilize it using clear elastic. This can help the neckband retain its shape after multiple stretches.
- Follow the Grove tutorial up until the point of sewing the neckband to the neckline. With the neckband pinned/clipped to the neckline, lay your clear elastic under the neckline. The elastic will be touching the WRONG side of the bodice. As you sew/serge the neckband to the bodice, feed clear elastic through under the bodice. You can pin/clip the elastic to the neckline, but it can be easier to just feed it evenly as you sew. If you are using a serger, be careful not to cut the clear elastic.
2. When you flip the neckband up away from the bodice, you will see the elastic on the underside of the seam allowance. Topstitch the neckband seam allowance to the bodice using a stretch stitch as usual. The elastic will be hidden between the bodice and the neckband in the seam.
You’re done!
It is really that easy to stabilize the neckband. Your neckline will still be able to stretch for nursing ease, but the shape of the neckband will be stabilized from the stretching, helping it to return to its original shape.
Sewing a maternity tee and nursing-friendly neckline are simple adjustments you can make to your sewing projects during and after pregnancy, so that you can continue to sew clothes you absolutely love and feel amazing wearing! Once you get the hang of sewing the maternity add-on for Grove, you can use the skills to create maternity garments using many patterns!
