Women’s History Month: Elizabeth (Lizzy) Keckly
March is Women’s History Month—the perfect time to honor the incredible contributions of female sewists throughout history. From revolutionary designers to unsung heroines, their needlework has shaped fashion, industry, and even activism. Each week, I’ll be highlighting a remarkable woman whose sewing skills left a lasting mark on history. Join me as we celebrate their artistry, resilience, and influence!
This week, we’re honoring Elizabeth Keckly, a woman whose extraordinary skill with a needle helped her overcome the horrors of slavery and build a legacy of artistry, advocacy, and influence.
Born into Bondage, Determined for Freedom
Elizabeth Keckly was born into slavery in 1818, enduring a system that sought to deny her autonomy, dignity, and dreams. From an early age, she was forced to work relentlessly, including years of cruel treatment and exploitation. Yet, even in unimaginable circumstances, she developed an exceptional talent for sewing—a skill that would eventually become her means of liberation.
Her dressmaking abilities were so remarkable that she was able to earn money sewing for wealthy white women in St. Louis. Though she should never have had to buy her own freedom, the brutal reality of slavery meant that Elizabeth had to raise $1,200 to purchase her freedom and that of her son. After years of perseverance, Elizabeth was able to purchase their freedom by raising the $1,200 through her dressmaking.
Dressmaker to the First Lady
After gaining her freedom, Elizabeth moved to Washington, D.C., where she quickly became one of the city’s most sought-after dressmakers. Her talent, precision, and ability to create stunning designs led her to the opportunity of becoming Mary Todd Lincoln’s personal dressmaker and confidante.
Elizabeth designed many of Mary Lincoln’s most iconic gowns, including the elegant lavender silk dress she wore to President Abraham Lincoln’s second inauguration. But her role was far more than that of a seamstress; she provided emotional support to the First Lady, who struggled deeply with personal loss and public scrutiny during the Civil War.
A Voice for History
Elizabeth’s impact extended beyond fashion. In 1868, she published Behind the Scenes, or, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House, a groundbreaking memoir that offered an intimate account of her life, including the harsh realities of slavery and her years working closely with the Lincolns. The book was controversial at the time due to a society who at the time did not want to read a story about a free Black woman, but today, it stands as an invaluable historical document—one of the few firsthand narratives from a formerly enslaved woman who gained prominence in American society.
Beyond writing, Elizabeth was also a philanthropist. She founded the Contraband Relief Association, which provided aid to newly freed Black Americans and Union soldiers, demonstrating her lifelong commitment to uplifting others.
A Legacy of Strength and Artistry
Elizabeth Keckly’s story is one of courage, perseverance, and extraordinary talent. She survived unimaginable hardships and used her skills not only to change her own life but to leave an enduring mark on history.
Her legacy is a powerful reminder that sewing—like all forms of artistry—can be a tool of resilience, self-determination, and storytelling. Today, we honor her not just as a dressmaker but as a woman who refused to let injustice define her future.
