Adding Side Lacing to a Dress

Greetings fellow sewists! It’s Sarah (otherwise known as Sewingfun101) here on the blog. In today’s tutorial I will explain how to add side lacing to the Orchid Dress pattern. As a bonus I will also show you how to create a version without back closures. I’ve had this dress style pinned on my inspiration board for ages. I’m super excited to finally make it! While this tutorial uses the Orchid dress pattern, you can use the same technique on many different dress patterns!

Side lacing appeals to me for a number of reasons, specifically:

Comfort – There is a lot of flexibility with this style of garment. The bodice can be cinched to one’s preference and let out as needed.

Accessibility – Back closures (buttons/snap) can be eliminated with the added ease. A pull-over dress is an asset to those who may struggle with buttons.

Fashion – Side lacing on modern garments is a historically inspired style but created with modern values. Old styles become new trends.

Design Challenge – Can I modify this pattern to match my vision? As a Hobby Sewist I am constantly pushing myself to try new techniques. I’ve already successfully made three versions of the Orchid Dress. I am ready to tackle this project for my fourth!

Let’s get sewing!

Supplies Needed:

Orchid Dress pattern

Affinity Designer (for digital modifications) (Optional, you can also do these steps with paper pattern pieces)
Fashion fabric
Lining fabric
Matching thread
Fusible woven Interfacing
Grommets (0.5 or 0.6 mm)
Grommet Setting Tool* (see below)
Punching tool
Scissors
Ruler / seam gauge
Lacing

* To install grommets you will need a setting tool. Here are some examples:

Grommet Kit	Includes anvil and setter. Requires a hammer – and a steady hand.	Pros: Low Cost, locally available Cons: Difficult to set, Loud
Pliers	The Prym Vario Pliers with a 0.5 mm grommet attachment. This is what I will be using. Similar plier sets and dies are available under different brand names.	Pros: Fairly low cost, can also be used for plastic/metal snaps Cons: Attachment pieces may not be as easy to source (location dependent)
Hand Press	Available through Kam Snaps or off brand as “The Green Press”. Be sure to pair with the appropriate die set for your grommet size.	Pros: Works well without strain on the wrist, ideal for anyone who installs snaps and grommets in high volume Cons: High initial cost for press and dies, not available locally
Grommet Tape	“Grommet tape” or “eyelet by the yard” is an alternative method that does not require any hardware. You can sew it directly onto your fabric.	Pros: No tools! Cons: Limited colour range

Pattern Modifications:

For our project we will be primarily modifying the front and back side pieces. Additional width will also be added to the skirt to match the bodice.

STEP 1

Decide how large you would like your side panels to be. I will be adding about 4 inches of width to my version.

Starting with the Back Side Bodice A, draw a line approximately 2 inches away from the side seam and cut.

STEP 2

Take the piece with the circle marking and add 2 inches (plus ⅜” seam allowance) to the left side.

Add double notches to both pieces.

STEP 3

Mark your grommet placings, starting ½” away from the top and bottom and side seam, dividing markings evenly.

I will be adding 5 grommets with just over an inch spacing between them. You can add as many as you prefer.

STEP FOUR (OPTIONAL)

To eliminate the back closure, remove ½” from each back centre bodice piece, (eliminating one inch in total). Merge to create your new pattern piece.

Please note that with the elimination of the back closures you will no longer need to make a placket opening in the skirt. The skirt will now be attached to the bodice as a simple gathered skirt.

STEP FIVE

Take your Front Side piece and draw a line approximately 2 inches away from the side seam. Cut along the line, leaving a hinge at the top. Slash and spread, leaving a 2” gap at the bottom.

STEP SIX

True the pattern piece by filling in the line. You can now cut along the line, separating the front side bodice pieces. Add ⅜” seam allowance.

Create a grommet placing guide, starting at the bottom of the armscye. The markings should be parallel to your back side piece.

Draw double notches on both pieces.

STEP SEVEN

In the previous steps 2 inches were added to the front and back side pieces, respectively. If the centre piece was overlapped, an inch was removed.

Take your skirt pattern piece and increase the width by 3-4 inches. This will ensure that we do not lose any gathers in the process. Mark a new centre line, if desired.

Your pattern piece modifications are now complete.

STEP EIGHT

Assemble all your pattern pieces – both original and modified – and make a plan for how your fabric will be cut. Be sure that all pieces are mirrored and in duplicate.

Cut your main fabric and lining. Transfer all markings. Refer to the pattern tutorial for more guidance.

STEP NINE

Use an iron to press a ½” strip of fusible woven interfacing to the front and back side bodice piece at the grommet placement. Begin ⅜” away from all edges to reduce bulk in the seams. Repeat for lining.

For the original button back version:

Transfer the grommet markings to the right side of the fabric with an erasable marker.

STEP TEN

Following the main tutorial, sew your front bodice and strap pieces together. The only extra step is that the newly created pattern pieces with the grommet markings will be attached to the former side bodice pieces.

Repeat for the back bodice pieces and linings.

For the original button back version:

If you have opted to sew your back as per the pattern you can skip to Step 12, “Installing the Grommets”.

For the no back closure version:

Do not sew the front and back bodice pieces together. Keeping side seams open will enable easier hand press/plier access to the grommet markings.

STEP ELEVEN

Attach the lining to the front bodice and back straps, leaving a ⅜” gap at the side seam.

Repeat for back bodice main and lining, leaving a ⅜” inch gap at the side seam.

Leave the side seams open.

Flip the front bodice and back bodice wrong sides together and press.

STEP TWELVE

For the original version you will have already finished your bodice and will simply create holes following the grommet guide marks that have already been transferred to your fabric. Punch holes through the main and lining and install your grommets top down. Although my tutorial demonstrates a modified no back closure version, quick and easy installation is identical.

For all versions, use a leather hole punch (or scissors) to carefully open the circles along the grommet guide on your main fabric. You may have to roll the fabric from the side seams to have better access to your markings. Be sure that excess fabric is not caught under your hole punch!

TIP: It is best practice to make a sample hole on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure that it is the correct size for your grommet. Do not make the hole too big.

For the no back closure version, open up your bodice pieces with wrong sides facing you.

Flip the fabric wrong sides together. Align the main and lining at the seam line. Take care that everything perfectly matches. Transfer the hole markings to the lining and cut open.

Starting with the main fabric, insert the grommet through the hole and continue on through the lining.

Next, place the flat washer on top. The washer is a backing piece and should always be facing the lining.

Setting the Grommets Using Pliers:

This is the part of the tutorial that you have been waiting for! We are finally going to set those grommets!

If you’ve ever used plastic snaps you will already know how fast and easy it is to use pliers (or a hand press). Each grommet size will have its own die set so be sure to insert the correct ones. One piece will be flat and have a hole in the middle (O). The other features a protruding tube (T).

Place the metal dies firmly into your plier set.

With your main fabric face up, align the pliers to that piece O is on top and piece T on the bottom, against the lining.

In other words, the piece with the hole in the centre will be against the flatter side of the grommet (facing your main fabric). And the piece with the protruding tube will be against the washer (facing your lining).

Double check to ensure that your pliers are facing the correct way. Refer back to the image above for a quick reminder.

Press firmly with pliers to set. It’s really that easy!

Continue installing grommets, top down.

The front and back bodice now have all the grommets installed. It’s already looking amazing!

If you’ve made the original back version skip to step fourteen. You only need to attach your skirt, as per the instructions and lace up your dress.

Front Bodice

Back Bodice

Front and Back Bodices (not attached)

STEP THIRTEEN

For the no back closure version, the side seams will be attached using the burrito method. Place right sides together, main with main and pin.

Flip over and pin the lining, enclosing part of the bodice. Push the bodice out of the way when stitching.

Flip right sides out and press. Repeat on the other side.

Topstitch bodice for a polished look.

STEP FOURTEEN

Sew your skirt and pockets according to the instructions.

For the no back closure version, the placket is omitted. Attach the skirt to the bodice like a regular gathered skirt.

STEP FIFTEEN

Weave in the lacing, tie with a bow and you are done! Doesn’t it look so pretty?

Thank you for reading this tutorial on how to add side lacing to your Orchid Dress! If you decide to try this on your own dress, I would love to see it posted on the Boo and Lu Facebook Group.