Size Inclusive Sewing

by Nicole Irvin

I’ve spent the better part of three decades trying to fit my body into the mass-
manufactured clothing available and can honestly say most of that time, I failed.

I cannot count how many times I’ve broken down in a dressing room out of pure frustration. I’m lucky enough to have always carried myself with confidence but sometimes, the obvious lack of knowledge or effort put forth into making “plus size” items became overwhelming.

I can clearly remember the summer I started buying bras at the big box plus-size store because they were the only one who made them large enough for my chest. I literally stood in a dressing room as a 15-year-old teenager and cried when I came out for my mom and the clerk to check the fit. Unlike some, I didn’t cry from the embarrassment of standing in the dressing area in overalls and a bra. No, I cried because the only option for a chest my size was beige and not a cute beige with lace overlay or some lacy straps- just gigantic, solid beige cups.

Imagine your teenage self, coming into womanhood and truly in the most self-conscious stage of your life and instead of being able to find something fun, young and flirty, your only option leaves you looking like Mrs. Doubtfire’s boob suit. Man, did I wish that thing would catch on fire. This is the moment when I knew I would never truly be able to walk into a mainstream box store and find something that fit like a glove. My body was not made for factory sizes and despite knowing that, I would spend almost two more decades still trying. What’s the definition of insanity again? (lol)

Then came Boo & Lu Patterns and their insanely detailed patterns.

I had never felt so SEEN in clothing patterns before. The extensive fit guides, clickable links, and video tutorials completely changed my sewing journey and gave me the ability to shape patterns to my body and my needs, all while staying current with fashion trends.

After over twenty years (rude) of bra straps digging into my shoulders, I have permanent indents where they rest. Usually, by the time I get home for the day, the first thing I do is take off my bra and let my animals out of their cage! Plumeria was the first pattern I made where the built-in bra cradled my boobs perfectly. I was blown away with the details put into the sizing charts, the cup sizes and the FBAs (full bust adjustments) or those who may need SBAs (small bust adjustments). Did you know there is quite a difference between your bra size in the store versus your cup sizes when sewing?

The information in the fit guides was invaluable in creating a garment that really suited my body, and allowed me to partake in the braless-as-much-as-possible lifestyle.

Being plus-sized, the fashion trends are not always friendly to my body. I’m shaped like a giant ice cream cone; I’m rounded on the top, more rounded in the middle, and then everything goes narrow. There are no coke bottles or pears here. There’s a whole lotta junk in the front and an apron belly. The crop top trend made me look more like Winnie the Pooh searching for his next honey pot, rather than a fun and flirty thirty-something.

But then I made Honey.

I would have normally kept scrolling when I saw the initial photos, but the crisscrossed details in the back had me asking myself, what do you have to lose? Worst case, I have a top to wear under my overalls around the house. I was overwhelmingly surprised with how fun and trendy and sexy I felt in this pattern. The tutorial for Honey walked me through how to alter this pattern not only for my bust size, but also for my height and long torso (also known as a side-waist measurement, which I didn’t know until Boo & Lu). I fully believe this is why my crop top came out successfully looking like a shirt and not a sports bra.

Until I met Summer, I believed woven was a great base for doll clothes, toys, bags, etc., but was not something I would ever use when making myself clothing. Woven was not a forgiving or moveable base for my shape. I was so wrong in all of the best ways. This was the most detailed pattern I have ever read through. I struggled learning how to make an FBA in a woven fabric that sat right where I needed it to. I’m not going to lie, FBAs have always freaked me out. I avoided patterns requiring them for years. This time, I read through the fit guide and watched the video tutorials. It took me three muslin makes to nail it.

My body requires blending between a minimum of two sizes but sometimes three, adjusting for a longer side waist, height and an FBA (including moving the darts to the right places so they don’t create awkward points). Being that I have a lot of middle section, I was concerned on the silhouette of a non-stretch base being flattering, but I realized after completing my first Summer that when you make something tailored to your measurements, you can wear a dress that doesn’t hide your curves behind a mountain of excess fabric in the shape of a muumuu. I have since made three Summers with all different variations.

I believe clothing has the power to shape your mood.

A perfectly tailored outfit can give you the confidence of a boss ready to command the day. The perfect amount of cozy and cute can support your choice of comfort without making you feel like a troll. A twirl in your dress can bring a smile ear to ear, reminding you of bright, shiny days. And the right amount of je ne sais quoi can light a spark nobody could hold a candle to. How do you get there? By building a wardrobe that is fit for you, and not one that you have to fit into. Boo and Lu Patterns have given me a confidence I didn’t know existed. I not only know my makes look good, but I can feel it when I wear them.

And yes, they often have pockets!!