Women’s History Month: Ann Lowe
March is Women’s History Month, a time to honor the trailblazing women who shaped history—often without receiving the credit they deserved. This week, we’re featuring Ann Lowe, an extraordinary Black fashion designer whose elegant gowns graced debutantes, socialites, and even a First Lady—yet for most of her life, her name was left out of the spotlight.
Despite racism and countless setbacks, Ann Lowe’s talent and perseverance cemented her as one of the most remarkable designers of the 20th century.
A Legacy Sewn from Childhood
Ann Lowe was born in 1898 in Clayton, Alabama, into a family of skilled dressmakers. Her mother and grandmother were highly sought-after seamstresses, creating elaborate gowns for wealthy Southern women. Sewing wasn’t just a hobby in their home—it was an art passed down through generations.
When Ann was just 16, her mother passed away suddenly, leaving behind a series of unfinished gowns for a wealthy client. With no time to grieve, Ann picked up where her mother left off and completed the dresses herself—a moment that marked the beginning of her own career.
Her skill was undeniable, and she soon enrolled in a prestigious design school in New York City. Despite being forced to study in a segregated classroom, away from her white classmates, Ann excelled and graduated early.
Dressing America’s Elite
By the 1920s, Ann Lowe had moved to Tampa, Florida, where she opened her first shop, catering to high-society women. But she had bigger dreams. In 1928, she relocated to New York City, where she designed for some of the most elite department stores and exclusive clientele.
Lowe became the go-to designer for debutantes, heiresses, and socialites, known for her handcrafted, one-of-a-kind gowns featuring intricate floral appliqués, fine silks, and exquisite attention to detail. She was known as “society’s best-kept secret”—her work was celebrated, yet her name was rarely credited.
In 1950, Ann Lowe was hired for what would become her most famous commission: designing the wedding dress for Jacqueline Bouvier when she married John F. Kennedy.
The Unseen Struggles Behind the Iconic Wedding Dress
The Jackie Kennedy wedding gown was a masterpiece of ivory silk taffeta, featuring over 50 yards of fabric and delicate, hand-sewn pleats. It should have been a career-defining moment for Ann Lowe. Instead, disaster struck.
Just ten days before the wedding, a pipe burst in her studio, destroying the entire collection of dresses for the bridal party—including Jackie’s gown.
Rather than admit defeat, Ann and her team worked tirelessly, remaking all 10 gowns from scratch in less than a week.
Despite her dedication, when the media covered the wedding, her name was never mentioned. When asked who had designed her dress, Jackie said: “A colored woman did it.”
A Life of Talent, Hardship, and Perseverance
Though immensely talented, Ann Lowe struggled financially for most of her career. She often undercharged for her work, valuing artistry over profit. She once said, “I love my clothes, and I’m particular about who wears them. I am not interested in sewing for café society or social climbers. I do not cater to Mary and Sue. I sew for the families of the Social Register.”
She faced financial hardship in the 1960s, even losing her studio due to debt. Yet, her reputation remained strong, and loyal clients helped her reopen. Eventually, her contributions to American fashion were recognized, and in the 1960s, she was finally honored as a pioneer in couture design.
Ann Lowe’s Lasting Legacy
Ann Lowe was more than just a seamstress—she was an artist, a visionary, and a trailblazer who defied racial barriers to build a legacy in high fashion. Her designs, though often uncredited, shaped American elegance for decades.
Today, her gowns are displayed in museums like the Smithsonian, and she is finally receiving the recognition she always deserved.
This Women’s History Month, we celebrate Ann Lowe and all the women whose stitches have sewn their stories into history.
