Adding Side Lacing to a Knit Dress

Greetings fellow sewists! It’s Sarah (Sewingfun101) here on the blog.

I’m sewing up some gorgeous Boo and Lu dresses for my me-made wardrobe. In fact, I am currently wearing one of my many Orchid Dresses. It’s a woven pattern that is perfect for the warmer months. For my fourth version (and yes, I do have plans for more!) I added side lacing with metal grommets.

I loved the side lacing detail so much that I decided that I just had to try it on a knit pattern. In today’s tutorial I will explain how to add side lacing to the Adult Stella Dress with fabric loops.

Stella is a stunner of a dress. My jaw literally dropped to the floor when I browsed through the tester photos. I’ll admit that it was one of the reasons why I found Boo & Lu in the first place. The designer created a unique and beautiful dress that you will be sure to want to make over and over again. Key design features include delicate, crisscrossing straps at the back, twisted sleeves and a ruched overskirt.

When I make a pattern I like to consider how it will work for me. To make this dress a bit more modest (and fun!) I will be raising the neckline, drafting a lined panel at the back, and extending the skirt and overskirt to fall below my knees. The side lacing detail I am adding is what I will be showing you today on the blog.

Let’s get sewing!

Stella Line Drawing

Supplies Needed:

Adult Stella Dress Pattern
Affinity Designer (for digital modifications)
Main fabric
Coordinating fabric
Sewing Machine
Thread
Scissors
Ruler / seam gauge
Lacing

Step 1: Front/Back Bodice

If you need to shorten/lengthen and/or grade between sizes go ahead and do so before altering the pattern.

Starting with the front bodice, draw a cut line approximately 2 inches away from the side seam. Add in ⅜” seam allowance.

The neckline will be raised by an inch. This optional modification applies to both lining and main.

Tip: Create a test garment, and/or use your lining, to see if you like the neckline before cutting into your good fabric.

Draw a line at the side of the back bodice, approximately 2 inches away from the side seam. Add in ⅜” seam allowance.

Step 2: Mark Loop Placing

Mark the location of your fabric loops along all four back and front side pieces. They should be evenly spaced and exactly parallel to one another.

Decide on the number of ties – I’ve added 6.

Step 3: Loops and Lacing

To create the loops cut a rectangle that is 1.25” wide by 50” long.

Tip: The loops are a great opportunity to use scrap fabric. The finished measurement of each loop will be 2” long and you will need 24.

If you own the Adult Raven Dress Pattern you can refer to page 26 for a cut chart for your lacing (strap) size. Alternatively, weave a flexible measuring tape between your loops to calculate the correct length. The lengths will vary, ranging from 30” in a size 0 to 56” at a size 32. It’s always better to err on the side of extra length.

For my size I will cut two rectangles that are 1.25” by the width of my fabric (56”).

Tip: You can use pre-made lacing with stretch if you are short on time! I’ve found multi-coloured laces at Walmart and my local dollar store. Other alternatives are parachute cord and ribbon.

Fold the strips of fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew down the long side with a stretch stitch or serger.

Use a safety pin or turning tool to flip the fabric so that the right sides are facing outward. Give it a good press.

Take the loop piece and cut out a total of twenty-four 2” pieces. Discard the remainder.

You should now have 24 loops and 4 laces.

Pro Tip: Use the grid on your cutting mat as a guide.

Baste the loops to the front and back side bodice pieces at the markings. Use a long, straight stitch (4 or 5) on your sewing machine. Be sure to do this with the main fabric only and right sides together. Take care not to mix up the front and back pieces as they look very similar.

Step 4: Creating the Bodice

Pin/Clip and sew down the front bodice side pieces to the front centre bodice pieces. The loops will be sandwiched between.

Repeat with the back bodice pieces.

Give it a good press.

Top stitch toward the side seam.

Your bodice pieces can now be considered one piece. Continue constructing the dress as per the Stella Tutorial.

Step 5: Lacing the Bodice

Once your dress is done, weave your lacing through the loops and finish with a bow!

Thank you for reading this tutorial on how to add side lacing to your Adult Stella Dress! If you decide to try this on your own dress, I would love to see it posted on the Boo and Lu Facebook Group.