Free DIY Laptop Sleeve Tutorial
I am often on the go with my laptop, so instead of just tossing it in my tote bag I decided I needed a laptop sleeve to carry it in. I made this functional and fashionable laptop sleeve and wrote how to do it so you can too! This works as a laptop sleeve or tablet sleeve, and is great for keeping kids’ devices clean and protected as well.
This free diy laptop sleeve (or tablet sleeve) tutorial is simple, customizable, and fun to make!
Let’s sew!
Materials
- Main/outer fabric (cotton, canvas, heavy linen, vinyl, etc.)
- Lining/inner fabric (cotton, flannel, etc.)
- Pocket lining fabric (this is what will show when you unzip the pocket. It can be the same as your lining fabric, or different.)
- 2 Zippers
Let’s talk interfacing!
There are many variants of interfacing to choose from. You absolutely DO need interfacing, but you can choose the type based on the finish you want your bag to have. For a thick and structured bag, use foam interfacing for the main. For a less structured but still padded bag, use fleece interfacing. If you are using something like vinyl for your main, you may just want stiff craft interfacing.
For the lining interfacing, there are also options. You can use fleece, mid-weight craft interfacing, etc., or you can also use quilting batting. It depends on how thick you want the sleeve to finish.
If you sew the pocket, you will also need lightweight interfacing for the pocket pieces.
You can interface the entire piece, or you can trim the interfacing down the amount of the seam allowance to make the seams less bulky.
Cut TWO main interfacing, TWO lining interfacing, and TWO pocket interfacing. Do not fuse or adhere the interfacing to the fabric until instructed to do so in the tutorial.
Cut Dimensions
Laptops and tablets come in a variety of sizes, so the cut dimensions for your fabric will depend on the size of the laptop. Measure the length and width of the laptop, and add 3″ to each measurement. That is the size to cut all your fabric pieces.
For example, if the laptop is 9×15″, cut each piece of fabric AND interfacing at 12×18″.
Zipper Specifications
The zipper should match or exceed the width of the fabric. So, if you cut the fabric 18″ wide, the zipper needs to be at least 18″ long. It can easily be trimmed down to match the fabric width if it begins longer. The end of the zipper will be sewn into the fabric so there is no need to add a stopper if you trim the zipper to fit.
If desired, add tabs to the ends of the zipper. Sandwich the end of the zipper between two scraps of fabric that are placed right sides together. Sew, then flip and press. The tabs should be the width of the zipper tape and a couple inches long. Trim the zipper down close to the seam allowance.
If you add tabs, the finished zipper with the tabs should measure the width of the fabric. For example, if the fabric is 18″ wide, the zipper with tabs should finish at 18″ long.
Note that if you add tabs, the zipper length shortens compared to the fabric, since you added length in the tabs. You may want to add an inch total to the width of the fabric to account for this, to make sure it is easy to get the laptop or tablet in and out of the bag. For example, instead of 18″, have it be 19″ wide and have the total zipper and tabs length be 19″ so the zipping part still opens enough to easily insert the laptop.
Sewing Instructions
Tip: If you have never sewn this type of bag before, have never sewn a zipper before, or are a beginner sewist, you may find it useful to read through the entire tutorial before beginning. This way, you have the big picture in your mind of how it comes together before you start!
Sewing the Pocket
On just ONE of the MAIN pieces, fuse the POCKET INTERFACING to the wrong side of the fabric. On ONE of the POCKET LINING pieces, fuse the POCKET INTERFACING to the wrong side of the fabric. (DO NOT FUSE ANY OF THE MAIN INTERFACINGS TO ANYTHING AT THIS STAGE.)
Lay the interfaced main right side up. Draw a horizontal line across the fabric where you want the zipper opening to be. Roughly 1/4 of the way down from the top is a good spot. Cut across this line. Repeat with the interfaced pocket lining piece. Make sure the cut line matches exactly on the two pieces.
Place the pocket zipper right sides together with the top edge of the larger/lower pocket MAIN piece. Place the matching pocket lining piece right sides together with the main, sandwiching the zipper. Pin/clip in place. Sew with a zipper foot.
Turn right side out and press.
Lay the smaller/upper pocket MAIN right facing up. Lay the zipper’s unsewn edge right sides together with the BOTTOM edge of the pocket MAIN.
Place the matching pocket LINING right sides together with the main, sandwiching the zipper between the main and lining. Pin/clip. Sew with a zipper foot.
Turn right side out and press.
Top stitch along both sides of the fabric.
Fuse one piece of the MAIN interfacing to the wrong side of the other POCKET LINING piece. Lay the interfaced lining piece RIGHT side up.
Lay the sewn pocket RIGHT side up on top of it. The MAIN should be facing up, with the two LINING fabrics facing each other.
Baste around the perimeter, securing all layers to each other around the outside.
This entire piece will now be referred to as a MAIN for the remainder of the laptop sleeve tutorial.
Sewing the Sleeve Zipper
Fuse/adhere the other main interfacing to the wrong side of the other main piece. Fuse a piece of the lining interfacing to the wrong side of a lining piece. Repeat with second lining interfacing and lining piece. All pieces should now be interfaced.
Lay the main with the pocket attached right side up. Lay the zipper right sides together with the top edge of the main. BASTE in place. This will give a cleaner finish than immediately sandwiching with the lining and sewing, because the main is now bulky with all the pocket parts.
Lay the main with basted zipper right side up. Lay one lining piece right sides together with the main, sandwiching the zipper. Pin/clip. Sew with a zipper foot.
Turn right side out and press.
Keep the main with sewn zipper right side up. Lay the second main piece right side down, aligning the top edge of the second main with the unsewn zipper edge. Pin/clip. BASTE in place, as you did with the first main piece.
Lay so that the zipper is face down. The basted MAIN will be on the bottom, then the zipper with sewn main/lining, so that the sewn lining is right side up. (If that seems confusing, just make sure the ZIPPER is face down, and it will be correct!)
Lay the lining right sides together with the main, sandwiching the zipper. Pin/clip. Sew with a zipper foot.
Grade the seam allowance on both sides of the zipper.
Turn right side out and press. Topstitch both sides.
Finishing the sleeve
Open the zipper part way. Open flat, and bring the two MAIN pieces right sides together and the two LINING pieces right sides together.
Pin/clip at the center of the side, where the lining and main meet at the zipper. Repeat on other center side.
Important note- when you do this, make sure that the zipper teeth are pointing toward the lining fabric. This will make sure it lays smoothly when you flip it right side out! I find it easiest to pinch the zipper teeth together toward the lining fabric and pin/clip. I also use this moment to double check that I have pinned/clipped so that the seams of the main pieces are exactly aligned at the edges.
Pin/clip around entire perimeter, leaving a 6″ opening at the bottom of the lining.
Sew around your pinned/clipped edges, leaving the bottom gap unsewn. Be very careful when sewing over the zipper that you do not put your needle down directly into the zipper teeth, especially if you are using a metal zipper. Use your handwheel to sew slow stitches over the zipper, to be sure not to hit the teeth, or jam the needle in the bulk. Resume sewing normally when you are past this bulky part. (Trust me on this. USE THE HANDWHEEL at the zipper.)
Trim the lining seam allowance in half. Grade the main seam allowance. Clip the corners. Turn right side out through the opening in the lining.
Press the seam allowance of the opening to the inside. Pin/clip shut. Top stitch. You can hand stitch with a ladder stitch if you choose, but this seam will be hidden inside the bottom of the sleeve and won’t show, so I always topstitch with my sewing machine.
Push the lining down into the main. Poke all the corner out with your finger or a blunt turning tool (be careful not to break the stitches). Give one final press and admire your handiwork!
You are finished!
That’s it! This laptop sleeve or tablet sleeve is a fun sew that is as functional as it is beautiful. You can customize the size, and of course get creative with finishing touches. Add a pocket to both sides, add a handle or strap, etc. The sky’s the limit! This sleeve is also a great gift for all ages.
