Raising and Lowering Bust Darts
Many woven patterns for adults drafted on a curvy block utilize darts for shaping the fabric to the body. Darts essentially allow a flat piece of fabric to become three dimensional, which is necessary when sewing non-stretch fabric in a form-fitting way around curves, such as the bust.
Boo and Lu patterns such as Summer and Skylark use bust darts to achieve a fitted bodice in woven fabrics. The position of the dart matters for achieving a perfect fit, and you may find that you need to make adjustments to the pattern to fit your unique body. This can mean lowering or raising the dart.
A properly fitting dart should have its point in line with the apex of the bust. Depending on your body shape, you might need to raise or lower the dart on the pattern piece, for it to be correctly aligned with your own body shape.
First, note on the pattern piece where the drafted apex is located. If there is not one notated, it should be placed horizontally in line with the point of the dart, typically 1-2″ away, depending on bust size.
Draw a new apex dot exactly vertically above/below the original marking, the amount you wish to move it.
Draw a rectangle around the dart, as shown above. The dart point and leg ends should all touch the rectangle perimeter.
Cut out the rectangle and slide away.
Slide the rectangle back into place, this time with the point directly aligned with the new apex marking. The point end of the rectangle should be exactly vertically above/below there it began. It has moved up/down but not in/out.
Slide a piece of paper behind it large enough to fill in the gaps and tape into place.
True the side seams, drawing a new line blending in above and below the dart. Trim away excess paper.
This is your new pattern piece!
Raising and lowering darts on a pattern piece is very easy, and can make a huge difference in the fit of the finished garment. One of the best things about sewing is being able to create clothing that perfectly fits YOUR beautiful and unique body.
