Sew Versastile: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Reversible Astrea Bodysuit

Today on the blog we have Zoe who is sharing a tutorial for making our Adult Astrea bodysuit reversible!

*In order to get a reversible bodysuit you will need to cut 2 sleeves in your lining fabric

Notes:

1. you can mix and match the options (ie. one side faux corset, the other simple)

2. If doing the sleeveless option the binding will be seen on BOTH sides so make sure you choose your fabric accordingly.

Faux Corset construction, for simple bodysuit construction skip to step 8

1. Lay the faux corset center facing right side up. Take the two faux corset side pieces and place them on top, aligning the straight edges, and pin or clip in place. Sew using a stretch stitch or serger. If desired, you can add clear elastic to these seams at a 1:1 ratio to add more support.  Repeat with lining fabric. (Copied from original tutorial Step 12)

2. Turn the bodice right side out and press well. If desired, topstitch along the seams for a professional finish. Repeat with lining fabric. (Copied from original tutorial Step 13)

3. With RST align the bottom edge of the front bodice with the TOP rounded edge of the faux corset. Sew/serge together. Repeat with lining fabric.

4. Press the corset piece down and the seam up towards the bodice. Topstitch using a stretch stitch if desired. Repeat with lining fabric. (Copied from original tutorial Step 18)

5. With RST align the bottom edge of the faux corset and the top of the front bottom. Sew/serge together. Repeat with lining fabric.

6. With RST align the bottom of the back bodice and the top edge of the back waist. Sew/ Serge together. Repeat with lining fabric.

7. With RST align the bottom edge of the back waist and the top edge of the back bottom. Sew/serge together. Repeat with lining fabric.

*You should now have 4 bodysuit pieces (1 front main, 1 back main, 1 front lining, and 1 back lining.)

8. With RST align the shoulders of the back main with the front main. Sew/serge together. Repeat with lining fabrics.

9. Open up bodysuit with right sides up. Align the top of the sleeve with the armscye RST. Sew/Serge together. Repeat for the other sleeve. Repeat with lining fabric. (For sleeveless option follow steps 54-58 in the tutorial BUT NOT YET. You MUST complete the rest of the steps for the reversible bodysuit FIRST!

10. Open up your main bodysuit and lay it down flat with right side up. Lay your lining bodysuit on top of your main bodysuit with the right side down. The main bodysuit and lining bodysuit should now be laying flat with RST.

11. Align and pin/clip together the sleeve hems. Sew/Serge together with ½” seam allowance.

12. Align and pin/clip together the leg openings on the front and back pieces. Sew/serge together. If desired, you can add clear elastic to these seams at a 1:1 ratio.

13. With your bodysuit laid out flat, separate the main and lining at the neckline on the back piece. Reach your hand between the main and lining on the back piece and grab the gusset. Start pulling the back piece to the right side. With the back piece right side out and the front piece still inside out, separate the main and lining at the neckline on the front piece. Insert the back piece inside the front piece right sides together. Align the side seams. From bottom to top the pieces should be as follows; Main front right side UP, main back right side DOWN, lining back right side UP, lining front right side DOWN. There is a video you can watch if you need help with this step:

14. Pin/Clip together the sleeve and side seams together. Sew/serge together. You will be sewing through 4 layers of fabric. *Tip if you find it difficult to keep all 4 layers lined up I recommend basting the inner 2 layers together first. Then sewing/serging all the layers together.

15. Straighten out your bodysuit and lay it flat. We are now going to tackle the neckline. When laying flat the layers from bottom to top should be as follows; main front right side UP, main back right side DOWN, lining back right side UP, lining front right side DOWN. You are then going to align the main front (bottom layer) and lining front (top layer), push the 2 inner layers down inside the 2 fronts. The 2 fronts should be RST. Pin/clip the shoulder seam and continue pinning around the front of the neckline. *You will not be able to access the entire neckline, but as you start sewing you will pull the inner 2 layers out. This will allow you to sew the entire neckline. Start sewing the neckline together, once you can’t sew anymore of the neckline, stop your machine, put the needle down, and begin to slowly pull the 2 inner layers out to reveal more of the neckline to sew. Continue this process around the entire neckline until you meet your starting stitches. There is a video to help with this step if you need it:

16. You are now going to pull the whole bodysuit to the right side. Start pulling the back piece out of the front piece through the gusset/crotch. Keep pulling until the whole bodysuit is right side out.

17. Iron on your interfacing to one side of your front crotch piece and to one side of your back crotch piece (main or lining, doesn’t matter which one).  

18. Turn the crotch in on itself ¾” to create the snap placket and topstitch. Do this for both the front and back crotch. Add 2-3 Snaps.

19. If doing the sleeveless option you may now complete steps 54-58 for the binding, if not congratulations you have now completed your reversible bodysuit!